November 18, 2003
Hard asiatic bouldering action: Dai Koyamada has apparently opened Byaku-dou "8c or harder" at Horai: the problem crosses a huge roof. It seems that Tokio Muroi has put up a new "8C or harder" at Ogawayama, Japan. The new problem is a slab. Sushi does miracles! Dai said: "I have been working on making the hard problems through this year in Japan and I first ascended the new 8C at Hourai, Aichi prefecture, Japan on 18. Nov. The problem is called Byaku-dou (the meaning is "the road to the heaven" in the Buddist world), 8C, which is 150-160 degree roof, is separated to two parts with 22 moves, the first part is made from many tricky moves graded 8B and the second part is 8A+ which has a dynamic dyno. Just then, I was with Fred Rouhling, who tried the route and said the Byaku-dou is harder than Dreamtime, 8C. I myself think the grade of this problem is at least 8C."
The Japanese Dai Koyamada, currently in Australia, has done another 8C, Sleepy Rave, at Hollow Mnt Cave. This problem is the connection of Sleepy Hollow, 8A+, into Cave Rave, 8B+. Dai is the second climber to get 3 8Cs, after "Big" Fred Nicole. The other 8Cs he climbed are the still anrepeated Byakou-dou (JPN) and Methuselahzation (JPN).