October 23, 2017
Yesterday, Montauban (South of France) native, and talended sport climber Lucien Martinez repeated the notorious « Jour de chasse » 8C in Fontainebleau. It took him no more than one hour and only 10 tries, after he’d sent « Narcotic direct » in a few tries a couples days prior. Jour de Chasse is combination on the Opium boulder at Recloses that was opened by Jan Hojer with a drastic dyno beta for the first movement, resulting in an extreme swing to control. The following repeaters have avoided the swing by choosing to use a high heel hook for a less powerful beta at the start. Here is Lucien’s feeling regarding this problem: « I suggest a downgrade of « Jour de Chasse » to 8A + and it is not just to be nasty or provocative, simply that I have some good arguments in this regard. First it is a matter of beta, between the heel at the beginning and the foot stuffing in the heuco allowing to finish quite easily in « Narcotic direct », the problem doesn’t compare with what Jan Hojer has climbed and confirmed at 8C. (I do not know the beta used by Seb Frigault for the start of Mécanique Élémentaire; ed., the two problems share the same sit start). But more importantly, I absolutely don’t have an 8C bouldering level, not even 8B +. The only two real 8B’s I have done are in my opinion « Ground Control pour Major Tom » in Targasonne and « La Danse des Balrogs originale » in Branson. In both cases, those are 8B known as rather easy and they gave me a lot of problems. Usually, I need several sessions just to succeed at even doing the moves separately in 8B’s and still need many others if I want to send. For example I’m currently working on « l’Insoutenable légèreté de l’être » and it is requiring a huge effort from me. Clearly, « Jour de Chasse » as I did it is a big step down and nowhere near 8B. That’s why, in all honesty I propose to downgrade it to 8A +, and probably not even a tough one.