December 01, 2017
30-50 days. Bertle originally suggested 9b soft, but later changed his opinion to 9a+.
Under the “pressure” of too many hard ascents I decide to update my tick list before having the most beautiful route of my life La Cène du lézard (9b) in Jansegg/CH banned on video. [...] The October came and with it the only two and a half weeks of great weather in the whole season (until April 2018). I went to Switzerland, where still some projects were unfinished since we had left the country in 2015. Even a boulder problem at Cousimbert. Walden. A beautiful sandstone line of nine hard moves that I a had tried at least on 30-40 sessions mainly in 2015 without coming really close. Now the forest was dry and the homecoming feelings dragged me into an unbelievable sending flow. I hadn’t been in there for more than a year, but after rechecking the moves and one good try, I only needed one more moment of highly concentrated day shape willingness to free this problem that back then resisted to me longer than Drop a line (8C/8C+). But it might be a little less my style, as it is shorter and more intense. I think of it rather as an 8C.
German climber Pirmin Bertle just claims a new 9b first ascent with “La barrière” in Jansegg, Switzerland (1800 meters high) with a good hangover! Primin also opened some hard routes there with “Des scènes bizzares dans la mine d’or” 9a+ (2015) followed this spring by “La scène du roi lézard” 9b (downgraded to 9a+ by Pirmin after that Cedric Lachat found a new sequence in the top crux). “La barrière” is a link and a new start combination of this one. Pirmin describes this new challenge like a 9a into another 9a linked by a poor rest. “La barrière” is for him his hardest sportclimb.