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Jernej Kruder

Jernej Kruder is a full-fledged all rounder who is a constant presence in the IFSC Circuit and sets new standards in deep water solo climbs, smashes big walls, and solves boulder problems with the precision of a math genius. He did his first 8a at the age of 12 and has dominated the climbing scene. In 2008 Jernej became the overall winner in bouldering at the World Cup and he finished the season seconding Chris Sharma’s DWS Es Pontas (9a/+).

NATIONALITY

Slovenia

Date Of Birth

05/12/1990

Speciality

Sport Climbing/Bouldering

Hardest Sport

9a/+

Hardest Boulder

V15/8C

Hardest Trad

8b

Jernej Kruder

Ascent Log

ClimbTypeSuggested GradeDate of AscentNotes
Es PontasDeep Water Solo9b1st Nov 2016Second ascent of the iconic DWS Video
Dugi RatSport Route9a+31st Dec 2018Jernej bolted the route 3 years prior to sending it. He broke off a few holds, making the route a lot harder. Video
MassacrateSport Route/Boulder9a+5th Dec 2015FA. This route is an overhung route climbed without a rope, just bouldering pads. Since it has 60+ moves, Jernej chose not to consider it as a boulder, but rather a sport route and graded it as such. UKC Article
Sanjski par extensionSport Route9a6th Dec 2022One of the hardest routes he’s ever done.
UmetnostSport Route9a24th Aug 20208a Article
Halupca 1979Sport Route9a20th May 2020Instagram Post
Pescena uraSport Route9a7th May 20208a Article
Vodni svet (Water world)Sport Route9a1st May 2018Third ascent. Found beta that made the route easier.
Bi Herri, Borroka BatSport Route9a6th Mar 2017
In timeSport Route9a15th June 2014
BellavistaBig Wall8a+3rd Aug 2022Instagram Post
Story of Two WorldsBoulderV15/8C4th Jan 2013Sent the boulder after 4 tries on that day.
La RusticaBoulderV15/8C16th Dec 2012Video
DreamtimeBoulderV15/8C9th Nov 2019His childhood dream boulder finally completed. Planet Mountain
MetafizikaBoulderV15/8C26th Sep 2018FA. La Crux
Catalan Witness the FitnessBoulderV15/8C7th Mar 2017Video

Kit Bag

Climbing Career

Learning the Ropes & Competition

Jernej Kruder grew up in Celije, Slovenia’s third-largest town. He discovered climbing at a young age, having been introduced to indoor climbing in his hometown when he was seven years old. Jernej joined the Solvenian Youth International team when he was 14 years old, and one year later he became Youth Vice-Champion in Speed while also crossing off his first 8c+ route, Botulin in Kotenik, from his list.

Jernej Kruder climber competition climbing
©Henning Schlottmann

Jernej has been a constant threat on the IFSC Circuit since 2004 when he won his first podium (2nd place in lead) at the European Youth Cup in Geneva. At the age of 15, he won his first World Championship, finishing second in speed climbing in Beijing, and his position on the chart only kept rising.

The peak of Jernej’s competitive rock climbing career was in 2018 when he won multiple places on the podium, including first place in bouldering at the World Championships in Meringen, Switzerland. In 2019, Kruder smashed the World Cup Competition in Moscow, winning gold in bouldering, surpassing renowned strongman climber Adam Ondra, who took silver.

Jernej Kruder winning gold championships
©Henning Schlottmann

Outside the gym, Kruder kept smashing the boulders and big walls having climbed in 2012 alone over 35 boulders graded 8a or above, according to an interview with one of his main sponsors, Scarpa.

Jernej has been on an upward trajectory, which he attributes to his dedication and training, as he believes that becoming an all-around climber is the key to becoming one of the best, if not the best, climbers in the world.

Notable Ascents

The Story of Two Worlds

At the beginning of 2013, during a trip to Switzerland with the Slovenian team, Jernej managed to climb one of the hardest boulders in his career un up until now, The Story of Two Worlds (8c). As he stated on his blog, Jernej didn’t go to Switzerland knowing he would solve such a behemoth of a route but rather train and relax with his fellow teammates.

During this trip, he climbed hard boulders such as The Dagger (8b+) and even considered a sit start for this problem. In Chironico he sent another hard route, Delusion of Grandeur (8b), so it’s safe to say he was pretty well warmed up for The Story of Two Worlds.

Jernej Kruder on Story of Two Words boulder
Jernej on Story of Two Worlds ©Brin

During this trip, he climbed hard boulders like The Dagger (8b+) and even considered a sit start for this problem. Heading in Chironico he sent another hard route, Delusion of Grandeur (8b), quite quickly, so we can say he was pretty warmed up by the time he arrived at The Story of Two Worlds.

As Kruder describes it, his success resulted from a series of fortunate events, such as good weather, as well as his physical and mental fitness, which enabled him to complete the climb in just a few tries.

“I can’t describe feelings, but I can say that I’m really happy to climb such a boulder and make a fourth ascent. It definitely changed my view on 8c boulders, but still I know I’ll have to do a lot to send more hard stuff.” said Jernej oh his blog post.

Es Pontas

One of Jernej’s most notable climbs is let’s say, a slightly unconventional one, as it’s Chris Sharma’s deep water solo route, Es Pontas (9a/+).

After ten years since Chris’ FA, Kruder went to Mallorca during a 4-week climbing trip and set his goal to second this impressive arch above the sea suggesting a grade around 9a/5.14d, a bit lower than Sharma appreciated.

Jernej Kruder climbing Es Pontas in Mallorca, Deep water solo climb
Jernej making the second ascent of Es Pontas ©Kerstin Helbach

It took Jernej almost 40 attempts to finish the route, with him facing difficulties at the huge 7-foot dyno right in the middle of the climb.

The struggle was real with this massive overhang, as a friend of Kruder’s described in UK Climbing: “Krudi did it! After almost a month of trying Es Pontas together, Jernej made the second ascent! Watching him climb was one of the best go’s I ever saw! He cruised through all the hard sequences until he started screaming at the victory jug!”

Bellavista

Remember when we said that Jernej Kruder is an all-around climbing machine? In August 2022, he climbed the most challenging route in Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Italy. Redpointed in the winter of 2000 by Alex Huber, Bellavista is a real challenge in the world of climbing, standing even today, twenty years later, as one of the hardest multi-pitch routes in the world.

Jernej Kruder climbing Bellavista
Kruder on Bellavista ©Bor Levičnik

Rising 500 meters above the valley, Bellavista’s hardest pitch is a 7b+, a grade that didn’t pose many problems for Kruder. But, it wasn’t a walk in the park either. He stated in an interview for LaCrux, “I fought all 85 moves and reached the deflector completely exhausted.”

Perhaps the toughest challenges for this climb remained the classic ones, such as finding the perfect weather window and, of course, the suitable partners for such an adventure, but things started to “fit together at one point” and Jernej, along with two other rope partners, managed to finish the route despite the long hours of waiting and the sketchy conditions on some sectors.

Jernej Kruder developed an appetite for high climbs after completing this massive multi-pitch, as he stated in the same interview, “I’m getting more and more experience in big wall climbing.” So we’re looking forward to seeing what he comes up with on his next adventure.

Video Library

Razvan

Born and raised in Jiu Valley, Romania, I am a true mountain enthusiast, absorbing knowledge from each sport the area offers. Snowboarder in the winter and a hiker and climber in the summer, I love spending my days up in the Carpathians. I have had a passion for writing ever since I laid my hands on my first keyboard, and I always have a curiosity for gear and great stories. I split my time between various jobs and hobbies, including being a full-time psychologist, repairing skis in the winter, and working with kids at my local gym whenever I have time.

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