Quoi de Neuf

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First Ascent of Quoi de Neuf by Rémy Bergasse, 8c bloc in Fontainbleau (more exactly in Orsay). on September 29. in 2008.

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Pour la difficulté, on peut dire que ça doit faire un 8c+ falaise car je n'ai pas assez d'expérience en cotation bloc pour pouvoir sortir un quelconque chiffre. Je peux juste dire que j'ai essayé des 8B à Bleau dernièrement comme l'apparemment bas ou la pierre philosophale et j'étais loin de les faire ! Ce bloc n'est pas représentatif de l'effort d'un 8C bloc.

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Fanatic Christmas present : The Parisian and French bouldering team climber Alban Levier today did the third ascent of "Quoi de neuf" 8c (the route that spans the whole Orsay roof in Paris's south surburb) after working on it for about 10 days. The first ascent of this testpiece was made in 2008 by the much missed Rémy Bergasse and the second ascent by Seb Bouin last september. Here's what Alban said about the send: « It's a very demanding line. Every kind of climbing movement is in there. You contort your body in every direction! That's why it's wonderful! The orginal exit is an 8b to which is added an additional 12 entry moves that make an 8a boulder in themselves so the effort is completely different. It's great to manage to do a long and intense challenge like this. All my thoughts are with Rémy Bergasse. Without him and his vision, the line would probably still be a project! It's a nice achievement for me too, because I remember climbing in this roof when I was about 12 and I didn't manage to link the 6B easy traverse between the 2 hard parts of the roof ! I've made some progress since then! Video coming soon ! »

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A couple weeks ago before Lead nationals, I really needed some days outdoors. After an amazing 4 days in the forest of Fontainebleau I had just enough skin left to give ˋQuoi de Neuf´ another shot. It’s a nice, super athletic roof close to Paris and comfortably enough, right next to the road on my way back to Germany😄 Two years ago I tried it for the first time together with James Webb. We both flashed the second part of the 30move line, which checks in at 8A+/8B by itself and did the first 7C+ish part the same session. But we couldn’t link it that day due to a lack of time and endurance. I had high hopes, coming of a couple months of lead training this time! It took me a while to get all the moves wired again but after some time the muscle memory kicked in. I took a long rest, going through the moves over and over again in my head before my first try from the start. I got through the first part efficiently and felt much better compared to my first session! I tried to stay as calm as possible and somehow kept it together throughout the second part! Sitting on top of the boulder, all I could do was smile! Partly because I knew how lucky I got, executing all the moves just perfectly enough, but mostly because I knew I only had a day left to recover before nationals 😂 Neil Hart put together the footage from my first session on it. I hope you enjoy watching! Mammut Mad Rock Climbing Flathold neprosport

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