Well, when I set off I felt significantly weaker than before, I barely made it through the first part. Somehow though I miraculously didn't fall off those terrible 2 moves that had tested me so much in the past and I managed to reach the jug. I really don’t know how! As I did I felt my heart skip a beat, I was on the rest but it was really hard to calm down, recover well and get ready for the final 8b section.
Perhaps I'd just worked the route into submission! As I said, in the past I'd had my chances but I'd been unlucky. So I guess I just got really strong, I didn't make any mistakes at all and when I finally did it I felt as if I wasn't really at my complete limit.
In the case of Jumbo Love he also felt that calling it 9b would be simpler than leaving it ambiguous. “Sometimes if I don’t give a grade, people start speculating, and then it can get all blown out of proportion,” he explained.
The scene and vibe here at the moment is insane and yesterday must have been one of the best days ever. I’m sure everyone at the crag was super psyched to watch Chris Sharma put in an inspiring effort to send his long-term project La Dura Dura (9b+ or 38); certainly the hardest route in the world at the moment.