October 27, 2017
Unknown
17 sessions over 2 months
The extreme routes in the ninth grade of Fred Rouhling in the late 90’s and the beginning of the new century have known very few attempts and repeats. Only « Hugh » 9a in Eaux Claires, Charentes, France got some repeats by Alessandro Lamberti, Pierre Bollinger and Dai Koyamada. But « De l’autre côté du ciel », « Akira », « Mandallaz drive » « Empreintes » et « Salamandre » stayed unrepeated. Since few weeks, Baptiste Dherbilly, rockclimber from Annecy, 24, was seriously trying « Salamandre » (aka « Attendez piétons ») and just di dit this week ! The route is located on the Double Cache crag, Haute-Savoie, Alps. It was first ascended bu Rouhling in 2007 with a grade around 9a+. Here are Baptiste’s thoughts : « I have been there 17 times in the last two months which represents around 50 tries. For the grade I don’t want to talk about it because I haven’t the experience to give my opinion on it. Fred had announced 9a/b, and after talking with him he thought 9a +. Until now, I had repeated as hard routes « Ordalie » a route from Fred 8c + and I did two first ascent which need to be confirmed. Both are around 8c/8c+ , one is « XV station » in Jourdy and the other one is « Entre rêve et réalité » in La Forclaz. So I have not really references in this level. That’s why I do not pronounce myself. All I know is the most difficult route I climbed. »