October 23, 2016
4000+ attempts over 4+ years. Watch the ascent on "The Lappnor Project". Watch Nalle climbing the boulder problem from one move in on the extras of "Kylmää kiveä".
Waking up today I can’t help but look at the world with different eyes. Having achieved the first ascent of Burden of Dreams marks a new level in my climbing. With a handful of existing 8C+ boulders in the world, proposing 9A is the logical step.
It would be hypocritical of me to talk about having achieved a new level and not propose a grade that signifies that. Isn't that exactly what grades are for? The only other option would have been to propose 8C+, making Burden of Dreams one more of the 8C+ boulders proposed over the last 12 years and this doesn’t represent the difficulty to me.
Funny enough the boulder is decievingly easy looking and I figured it would be just another great 8B+ or 8C to do. It turned out to be a pretty harsh reality check. And soon enough there was no avoiding the fact that it was going to be way harder than I had originally guessed. So many times I had worked it to a point where I felt like I was really close and just needed a tiny bit more. Then when I finally managed to do a little better it just revealed that actually I hadn't been that close at all. That eventually just lead to this way of thinking of it as this ongoing battle that you just have to keep fighting until it's over. That's maybe not the best mentality to be in to always push yourself, but that was a little better for maintaining some sanity instead of repeatedly setting up an expectation and then after finally achieving it realizing that it was just one more dissapointment in a long line of them. Obviously the mental side of the process became basically 80 percent of it at times.
Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival made an estimated 4,000 attempts on what's currently the world's toughest bouldering problem before finally conquering it last October. His new film, out next week, documents the quest.