November 18, 2003
Hard asiatic bouldering action: Dai Koyamada has apparently opened Byaku-dou "8c or harder" at Horai: the problem crosses a huge roof. It seems that Tokio Muroi has put up a new "8C or harder" at Ogawayama, Japan. The new problem is a slab. Sushi does miracles! Dai said: "I have been working on making the hard problems through this year in Japan and I first ascended the new 8C at Hourai, Aichi prefecture, Japan on 18. Nov. The problem is called Byaku-dou (the meaning is "the road to the heaven" in the Buddist world), 8C, which is 150-160 degree roof, is separated to two parts with 22 moves, the first part is made from many tricky moves graded 8B and the second part is 8A+ which has a dynamic dyno. Just then, I was with Fred Rouhling, who tried the route and said the Byaku-dou is harder than Dreamtime, 8C. I myself think the grade of this problem is at least 8C."
The Japanese Dai Koyamada, currently in Australia, has done another 8C, Sleepy Rave, at Hollow Mnt Cave. This problem is the connection of Sleepy Hollow, 8A+, into Cave Rave, 8B+. Dai is the second climber to get 3 8Cs, after "Big" Fred Nicole. The other 8Cs he climbed are the still anrepeated Byakou-dou (JPN) and Methuselahzation (JPN).
February 11, 2015
(Subject)Motochika Nagao sent Byakudo on Feb 11,2015. (Nagao)It took over two years including each tries on the lower part,Variation(8A+) and the upper part,Bachelorette(8A/8A+). Variation includes peculiar sequence and the crux undercling is very hard even as a single problem.Even after going through the lower part,the crux one finger dyno of Bachelorette is lying in wait.Struggled to go through Variartion and had managed to reach the upper part with great difficuty,I was thrown off abruptly.It was so hard problem physically and mentally. Though I have climbed a couple of long linking boulder problems,never climbed the problem included the crux move in each of the lower and upper part.So happy to finally send this problem! Thankful to the people who taught moves to me and accompanied me after dark." Also,he has done 2nd ascent of another 8C,Babel,which is the hardest line in Shiobara on Nov 30,2013.