Gioia

FA Grade:

8C

First Ascent:
Christian Core - February 25, 2008
Area:
Varazze
Style:
Boulder Problem
Repeated By:
Adam Ondra - December 06, 2011
Nalle Hukkataival - February 22, 2014
Notes:
semi traverse, 16 moves, a foothold broke at the beginning of March 2015 but got glued back right after

Ascent 1 of Gioia by Christian Core

Date of Ascent:

February 25, 2008

Suggested Grade:

8C

Notes:

8C/(8C+), 4 months

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Gioia Fb8c at Varazze by Christian Core
My sessions on the problem intensified despite broken skin until, one day, I managed to free the problem. I was overjoyed. I think it's the hardest problem I've ever climbed, and I reckon it's Fb 8c.

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Joy
Joy can be divided into two parts, from the start squatting in the long obvious notch in the middle, and then the same to the top. The first section is definitely the hardest, friends who have tried it thought no less than 8b / + 7 moves up all'accoppio on the long notch, then from there part of the second sequence (the version in the foot, a little 'easier, I have given 8a +, but they say 8b) that most felt by all. I did not find any rest, it was impossible to even smagnesare, I had to climb as quickly as possible.

Ascent 2 of Gioia by Adam Ondra

Date of Ascent:

December 06, 2011

Suggested Grade:

8C+

Notes:

11 days

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Adam Ondra, the pure Gioia interview
I'm very relieved I've finally done it. I spent about 11 days in total and I'm very glad that everything just clicked today, because I also knew that it would be my very last day this year.

Ascent 3 of Gioia by Nalle Hukkataival

Date of Ascent:

February 22, 2014

Suggested Grade:

8C

Notes:

8C/8C+

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Nalle Hukkataival repeats Gioia at Varazze
With Gioia it was difficult to find the right conditions, but today everything came together nicely! It's definitely one of the very hardest boulders in the world and climbs really well!

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Nalle Hukkataival blogs about Gioia
Gioia is definitely one of the most difficult boulders in the world. It’s certainly harder than most 8C’s out there. The real question is, is it a full grade harder? If we decide to consider it 8C+, then there are also a couple other contenders for 8C+ in my opinion.

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