February 25, 2008
8C/(8C+), 4 months
My sessions on the problem intensified despite broken skin until, one day, I managed to free the problem. I was overjoyed. I think it's the hardest problem I've ever climbed, and I reckon it's Fb 8c.
Joy can be divided into two parts, from the start squatting in the long obvious notch in the middle, and then the same to the top. The first section is definitely the hardest, friends who have tried it thought no less than 8b / + 7 moves up all'accoppio on the long notch, then from there part of the second sequence (the version in the foot, a little 'easier, I have given 8a +, but they say 8b) that most felt by all. I did not find any rest, it was impossible to even smagnesare, I had to climb as quickly as possible.
December 06, 2011
I'm very relieved I've finally done it. I spent about 11 days in total and I'm very glad that everything just clicked today, because I also knew that it would be my very last day this year.
February 22, 2014
With Gioia it was difficult to find the right conditions, but today everything came together nicely! It's definitely one of the very hardest boulders in the world and climbs really well!
Gioia is definitely one of the most difficult boulders in the world. It’s certainly harder than most 8C’s out there. The real question is, is it a full grade harder? If we decide to consider it 8C+, then there are also a couple other contenders for 8C+ in my opinion.