October 21, 2010
Woods originally suggested 8C hard, but later changed his opinion to 8C+ soft. 8-10 days
Just to clarify I have upgraded Hypno to 8C+... When I first established it in 2010 I did not have as much experience as I do now with Boulder grades. Hypno went relatively fast for me (8-10 days) spread across spring and fall season, so I assumed it was 8C. Hypno is the epitome of my style in climbing and still took a bit to figure out. Last week I repeated it from 3 moves in (first couple moves are not hard) and felt like it was still harder than anything I've climbed so far in that style. Dave and Paul are psyched on it and have told me they think it feels 8C+ as well. The boulder is 30 seconds from the road and has gone 6 years without a repeat though Dave and Paul are close. I started trying the connection from bear toss which starts on the left arête and adds in 6 moves of v11 to the start of Veritas (8A) or Hypno (8C+) with zero rest. Though it's not a pure straight up new test piece, it has amazing moves and is one hell of a challenge.
June 17, 2016
Five Ten Redbull athlete Rustam Gelmanov has made the first repeat of Daniel Woods Hypnotized Minds, V16 (8C+) in Rocky Mountain National Park. Daniel had recently lifted the grade from V15 after comparing it to the many of the grade he has done. It'll be interesting to see if more people will be trying it now its had a repeat! For Photos of Rustam on the problem please contact email@example.com
What a day today! I sent Hypnotized Minds V16 just in three days here in RMNP! @redbull @fiveten_official @monk_eindhoven @onsightnutrition
Like many, Rustam took the opportunity to spend some time in Colorado after the Vail World Cup and used it in the best way possible. Mostly known as one of the best competition climbers, he has a reputation of being able to crimp miniscule holds and then pulling on them as if they were jugs. A superpower which must have been quite handy on Hypnotized minds. The successful attempt came on his second go of the third session according to Eddie Fowke/The Circuit Climbing. Eddie Fowke: It was such an impressive send. He rested all day, then pulled on the holds a few times, got on and almost sent first try. 8C+ warm up... So much for long progressive warm ups.. Crazy. His feet did not leave the ground until he was trying the problem.
And the main question "Difficult or not?". I have two answers: 1) I don't have the right and the opportunity to judge the difficulty, I don't have enough experience. This question is to @dawoods89 and to anyone who will climb it later. 2) This route was not extremely difficult for me. It fit me very well and it's what I like. In reality I would not say how difficult it is
I received a lot of questions since the moment I climbed Hypnotized Minds in #rmnp. I will try to answer most popular ones. "Why does it look so easy?" - long time ago I've read in one book that master differs from the beginner that he does extremely hard moves with ease and without showing the effort. I'm trying to follow this rule and often it is impossible to see how difficult the route is. The most frequent question is "Why do you climb so little outdoors?" - unfortunately I ask myself same question. I almost didn't climb hard routes outdoor: couple of bouldering 8b+ and couple of 9a lead. And the main question "Difficult or not?". I have two answers: 1) I don't have the right and the opportunity to judge the difficulty, I don't have enough experience. This question is to @dawoods89 and to anyone who will climb it later. 2) This route was not extremely difficult for me. It fit me very well and it's what I like. In reality I would not say how difficult it is. 📷 @thecircuitclimbing @redbull @fiveten_official @onsightnutrition @monk_eindhoven