December 08, 2013
Today I went back to Recloses and did Narcotic directe, ~8B, and the first ascent of Jour de chasse, same start as Mécanique elèmentaire [an 8C Jan repeated recently] but instead of climbing down into Opium, I chose the more direct and slightly harder top out of Narcotic. To me it feels like 8C although it might be on the lower end.
January 21, 2014
8C soft, 6 days
March 02, 2014
May 11, 2014
8B+ soft, 15 min. Watch the ascent of "Out of Sight II".
February 24, 2015
He won't tell anyone so I will... Ned did Jour De Chasse AND Mecanique Elementaire today! Two 8b+'s in a day! :O #inspired
April 05, 2015
February 03, 2016
Bleau : nouveau 8C pour Kevin Lopata ! Un bloc qu'il confie à sa limite physique ! "Ce mercredi, je suis venu à bout de mon objectif du moment Jour de Chasse 8C, un gros cran au-dessus de "mécanique élémentaire", le crux consiste à bien remonter la fameuse inversée de Narcotic jusqu'à une série de plats qu'il faut impérativement gainer très fort pour atteindre le bac final. Somptueux et très physique." Font : new 8C for Kevin Lopata ! A boulder which he judges at his physical limit ! "This wenesday, I succeed in my current project "Jour de chasse" 8C, very hard compared to the other testpiece of the Opium boulder "Mécanique élémentaire". The crux is to go up with the famous undercling of Narcotic to the slopers at the lip at the boulder. You need a very strong body tension for holding the final jug. Wonderful and so physical."
October 30, 2016
December 09, 2016
Today I managed the ascent of Jour de Chasse, a short and demanding 8C / V15 problem in Font. So happy to begin this long winter like it. 10 min later my friends, Mickael Mawem did the ascent of Narcotic (8B) and Melissa Le Nevé Opium (8A). Congrats ! Hope to remake other similar sessions :) Now It's time to rest myself a bit before the French bouldering cup in Chamonix in two days before take off to Bishop next week ! Ocún / Vertical 'Art #teamverticalart #verticalart #oxi #bouldering #jourdechasse #8C #V15 #climbing #plutotcoolcommejournée
December 31, 2016
2. go from the start
February 18, 2017
March 16, 2017
Time flies when you're having fun! Last day in Font for me today. Many projects left to come back to again but I got a little going away present Jour de Chasse 8B+/C and got to see Melissa Le Nevé jump on the send train and finish off Mécanique Elémentaire 8B+! Got rid off the last of my skin today climbing two really good boulders Tostaky 8B and a rad 8A called El Niño! That's it's for this round Font! Off to Paris now, only one thing left to do!
May 07, 2017
October 23, 2017
Yesterday, Montauban (South of France) native, and talended sport climber Lucien Martinez repeated the notorious « Jour de chasse » 8C in Fontainebleau. It took him no more than one hour and only 10 tries, after he’d sent « Narcotic direct » in a few tries a couples days prior. Jour de Chasse is combination on the Opium boulder at Recloses that was opened by Jan Hojer with a drastic dyno beta for the first movement, resulting in an extreme swing to control. The following repeaters have avoided the swing by choosing to use a high heel hook for a less powerful beta at the start. Here is Lucien’s feeling regarding this problem: « I suggest a downgrade of « Jour de Chasse » to 8A + and it is not just to be nasty or provocative, simply that I have some good arguments in this regard. First it is a matter of beta, between the heel at the beginning and the foot stuffing in the heuco allowing to finish quite easily in « Narcotic direct », the problem doesn’t compare with what Jan Hojer has climbed and confirmed at 8C. (I do not know the beta used by Seb Frigault for the start of Mécanique Élémentaire; ed., the two problems share the same sit start). But more importantly, I absolutely don’t have an 8C bouldering level, not even 8B +. The only two real 8B’s I have done are in my opinion « Ground Control pour Major Tom » in Targasonne and « La Danse des Balrogs originale » in Branson. In both cases, those are 8B known as rather easy and they gave me a lot of problems. Usually, I need several sessions just to succeed at even doing the moves separately in 8B’s and still need many others if I want to send. For example I’m currently working on « l’Insoutenable légèreté de l’être » and it is requiring a huge effort from me. Clearly, « Jour de Chasse » as I did it is a big step down and nowhere near 8B. That’s why, in all honesty I propose to downgrade it to 8A +, and probably not even a tough one.
November 03, 2017
11月3日 Jour de chasse 8c登れました！！ 嬉しさと驚きが半分ずつです！ I send Jour de chasse(8c). I'm so happy and surprised to make it. #goodbouldering #DoctorAir
Back home in Japan I have climbed some 8B〜8B+ boulders, but no 8C's yet, but it seems the Fontainebleau sandstone suits his style perfectly as he has very quickly managed to repeat: - Fatman, ~8B - The Traphouse, ~8B+ - Gecko assis, ~8B+ - Jour de chasse, ~8C - The Big island, ~8C
December 12, 2017