L'Alchimiste (original version)

FA Grade:

8B

First Ascent:
Marc Le Menestrel - 1996
Area:
Fontainebleau
Style:
Boulder Problem
Repeated By:
Charles Albert - January 29, 2016
James Webb - February 03, 2016
Lucas Ménégatti - February 07, 2016
Notes:
8 moves, 8A+/8B originally before holds got broken

Date of Ascent:

1996

Suggested Grade:

8B

Notes:

8A+/8B

Link:

Nalle Hukkataival reclimbs Alchemiste at Fontainebleau
Making the most of what he he describes as “one of those special days”, Finnish boulderer Nalle Hukkataival has made the second ascent of l’Alchemiste, the superb boulder problem at Fontainebleau first climbed by Marc Le Menestrel back in 1997. Graded 8A+/8B and possibly the hardest problem in the forest at the time, just days after the ascent the crux holds were mysteriously hammered off and the problem remained unrepeated - and one of the aerea’s best known projects - since then.

Media:

/

Link:

L'Alchimiste on Bleau.info.
this mythic boulder, opened by Marc le Ménestrel in 1996 with the grade of 8b, had been vandalized. The problem has finally be reopened on March 4th 2015 by Nalle Hukkataival.

Date of Ascent:

January 29, 2016

Suggested Grade:

8B+

Notes:

5/6 sessions. Watch the ascent on "Out of Sight III".

Link:

Charles Albert reports on Facebook about his ascent of L'Alchemiste (original version).
Hey today i did the alchemist, the direct way. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpqSruvP_U8 In this video you see Nalle trying two methods. The direct way is the one that goes to the left. It's a nice 8b+, I'll repeat it at least ten times and probably one for a video, eventually with a sit start.

Link:

l'Alchimiste original, by Charles Albert
Charles suggests this version is around 8B+ in difficulty. This is a bit strange as the right, slightly easier, exit is currently considered ~8C.

Date of Ascent:

February 03, 2016

Suggested Grade:

8B

Notes:

3 tries

Link:

Jimmy Webb climbs l'Alchimiste in a day, suggests ~8B
I use the slopey method. Though I never tried the big move method [i.e Nalle's method]

Date of Ascent:

February 07, 2016

Suggested Grade:

8B+

Notes:

8B/8B+

Media:

/

Link:

Fanatic Climbing reports on Facebook about Lucas Ménégatti's ascent of L'Alchimiste (original version).
Commentaire et vidéo. Lucas Ménégatti nous en dit plus sur sa réalisation de "L'alchimiste" à Bleau. "J’avais déjà essayé l’alchimiste il y a de ça un mois avec Jé et Nico avec des conditions plutôt décentes et clairement j’avais trouvé ça mutant. La méthode de Nalle ne me convenait vraiment pas et je ne trouvais pas de méthode alternative. Dimanche, nous sommes partis avec Jérome et Joubert à Apremont pour faire Saigon et remettre les doigts dans l’alchimiste. On a fait Saigon puis en revenant sur l’alchimiste on s’est pris une grosse averse. Vingt minutes plus tard, tout était sec. Grosses conditions ; vent et froid. On s’est mis à essayer et la méthode de Nalle me faisait trop mal au genou droit toujours blessé depuis des essais dans Mustur. Du coup j’ai cherché une alternative au talon main et après plusieurs essais j’ai trouvé quelque chose qui semblait être possible. Au finale, cette méthode se rapproche beaucoup de ce qu’a pu faire Marc le Ménestrel il y a 20 ans. La vidéo expliquera mieux que des mots. Quant à la cote, on m’a demandé mon avis, et ça tourne autour du 8B pour moi . Peut être que ça collait fort et que ça mérite un plus, mais ça, les futurs répétiteurs nous le diront." Comment and video : Lucas Ménégatti about "L'alchimiste" in Font. " I had already tried the problem some months ago, and last sunday, after a little rain, it was windy and cold, perfect conditions. I tried Nalle's beta but it was too painful for my knee. So I tried another plan quite similar of Marc Le Ménestrel's beta 20 years ago. The video will explain better. I feel the grade around 8B, maybe it was good friction and maybe 8B+,.. The next climbers who will do it will see." https://vimeo.com/154788524