March 04, 2015
The Alchemiste! Finally! It's been a real battle with this one, so stoked to finally have finished it!! Yesterday was one of those special days. One of Fontainebleau's best known projects for 18 years. First opened by Marc Le Menestel in 1997 in it's original state and never repeated until crux holds got mysteriously hammered off. A lot of story behind this piece of rock and what a great line it is! Video to come! Swoooop!!
this mythic boulder, opened by Marc le Ménestrel in 1996 with the grade of 8b, had been vandalized. The problem has finally be reopened on March 4th 2015 by Nalle Hukkataival.
January 26, 2016
I only have the 8B+ boulders I´ve done for comparison. The recent ones I´ve done have taken less effort than this problem so I think 8C is correct. The left exit is maybe an eliminate variation now because the boulder has been repeated via the right, but this version is the original historical line. After tying it a few times I think it’s possible to catch the bad crimp on the left of the lip and to finish via this as Marc Le Ménestrel did before the hold got broken. It’s more intense but shorter. Now it´s just a question of linking it!
Alban seems unstoppable at the moment. After the first ascent of La Force, ~8C/9a, and quick repeats of La force du destin, ~8B+, and Hip-hop assis, ~8B, he has now made the 3rd ascent of Marc LeMenestrel's l'Alchimiste, ~8C.
Aujourd'hui l'Alchimiste ! après la séance d'hier, j'étais trop impatient d'y retourner ! Enchaîné par Nalle Hukkataival l'année dernière, ce dernier proposait 8c/8c+. Après coup, je penserais plutôt à un 8c. Trop content ! Merci à Gilles Puyfagès pour les photos. Petite vidéo de l'enchaînement ci-dessous L'alchimiste Today ! I looked too forward after yesterday tries ! Sent by Nalle Hukkataival last year, he thinked about 8c/+. In my opinion, I think about 8c. Too Happy ! Thanks to Gilles Puyfages for the pics.