L'Alchimiste (right version)

FA Grade:

Unknown

First Ascent:
Nalle Hukkataival - March 04, 2015
Area:
Fontainebleau
Style:
Boulder Problem
Repeated By:
Alban Levier - January 26, 2016
Notes:
10 moves. Marc Le Menestrel did the original (left exit) FA before the holds got broken.

Date of Ascent:

March 04, 2015

Suggested Grade:

Unknown

Notes:

Link:

Nalle Hukkataival reports on Facebook about his post break FA of L'Alchimiste.
The Alchemiste! Finally! It's been a real battle with this one, so stoked to finally have finished it!! Yesterday was one of those special days. One of Fontainebleau's best known projects for 18 years. First opened by Marc Le Menestel in 1997 in it's original state and never repeated until crux holds got mysteriously hammered off. A lot of story behind this piece of rock and what a great line it is! Video to come! Swoooop!!

Media:

/

Link:

L'Alchimiste on Bleau.info.
this mythic boulder, opened by Marc le Ménestrel in 1996 with the grade of 8b, had been vandalized. The problem has finally be reopened on March 4th 2015 by Nalle Hukkataival.

Date of Ascent:

January 26, 2016

Suggested Grade:

8C

Notes:

2 sessions

Link:

Interview : Alban Levier (with english version)
I only have the 8B+ boulders I´ve done for comparison. The recent ones I´ve done have taken less effort than this problem so I think 8C is correct. The left exit is maybe an eliminate variation now because the boulder has been repeated via the right, but this version is the original historical line. After tying it a few times I think it’s possible to catch the bad crimp on the left of the lip and to finish via this as Marc Le Ménestrel did before the hold got broken. It’s more intense but shorter. Now it´s just a question of linking it!

Link:

l'Alchimiste , ~8C, by Alban Levier
Alban seems unstoppable at the moment. After the first ascent of La Force, ~8C/9a, and quick repeats of La force du destin, ~8B+, and Hip-hop assis, ~8B, he has now made the 3rd ascent of Marc LeMenestrel's l'Alchimiste, ~8C.

Link:

VIDEO: Alban Levier sending L'Alchimiste.
Aujourd'hui l'Alchimiste ! après la séance d'hier, j'étais trop impatient d'y retourner ! Enchaîné par Nalle Hukkataival l'année dernière, ce dernier proposait 8c/8c+. Après coup, je penserais plutôt à un 8c. Trop content ! Merci à Gilles Puyfagès pour les photos. Petite vidéo de l'enchaînement ci-dessous L'alchimiste Today ! I looked too forward after yesterday tries ! Sent by Nalle Hukkataival last year, he thinked about 8c/+. In my opinion, I think about 8c. Too Happy ! Thanks to Gilles Puyfages for the pics.