La Cène du lézard

FA Grade:

9a+

First Ascent:
Pirmin Bertle - December 01, 2017
Area:
Jansegg
Style:
Sport Route
Repeated By:
Cédric Lachat - October 10, 2018
Notes:

Date of Ascent:

December 01, 2017

Suggested Grade:

9a+

Notes:

30-50 days. Bertle originally suggested 9b soft, but later changed his opinion to 9a+.

Link:

Ten 9a and harder in ten months
Under the “pressure” of too many hard ascents I decide to update my tick list before having the most beautiful route of my life La Cène du lézard (9b) in Jansegg/CH banned on video. [...] The October came and with it the only two and a half weeks of great weather in the whole season (until April 2018). I went to Switzerland, where still some projects were unfinished since we had left the country in 2015. Even a boulder problem at Cousimbert. Walden. A beautiful sandstone line of nine hard moves that I a had tried at least on 30-40 sessions mainly in 2015 without coming really close. Now the forest was dry and the homecoming feelings dragged me into an unbelievable sending flow. I hadn’t been in there for more than a year, but after rechecking the moves and one good try, I only needed one more moment of highly concentrated day shape willingness to free this problem that back then resisted to me longer than Drop a line (8C/8C+). But it might be a little less my style, as it is shorter and more intense. I think of it rather as an 8C.

Media:

/

Link:

Pirmin Bertle ouvre La barrière, 9b à Jansegg – Pirmin Bertle opens La barrière, 9b in Jansegg
German climber Pirmin Bertle just claims a new 9b first ascent with “La barrière” in Jansegg, Switzerland (1800 meters high) with a good hangover! Primin also opened some hard routes there with “Des scènes bizzares dans la mine d’or” 9a+ (2015) followed this spring by “La scène du roi lézard” 9b (downgraded to 9a+ by Pirmin after that Cedric Lachat found a new sequence in the top crux). “La barrière” is a link and a new start combination of this one. Pirmin describes this new challenge like a 9a into another 9a linked by a poor rest. “La barrière” is for him his hardest sportclimb.

Date of Ascent:

October 10, 2018

Suggested Grade:

9a+

Notes:

Media:

Link:

Première répétition de La cène du lézard 9a+ par Cédric Lachat – First repeat of La cène du lézard 9a+ by Cédric Lachat
After getting close last June, Cédric Lachat just did the first repeat of Pirmin Bertle’s “La cène du roi lézard” in Jansegg, Switzerland. First given 9b, Pirmin decided to downgrade it to 9a+ after a talk with Cédric. According to Cédric, whose thoughts about the send are below, he was a little bit bothered by a forced eliminate at the end the route.