Jan Hojer reports on Facebook about his ascent of Quoi de Neuf.
A couple weeks ago before Lead nationals, I really needed some days outdoors. After an amazing 4 days in the forest of Fontainebleau I had just enough skin left to give ˋQuoi de Neuf´ another shot. It’s a nice, super athletic roof close to Paris and comfortably enough, right next to the road on my way back to Germany😄 Two years ago I tried it for the first time together with James Webb. We both flashed the second part of the 30move line, which checks in at 8A+/8B by itself and did the first 7C+ish part the same session. But we couldn’t link it that day due to a lack of time and endurance. I had high hopes, coming of a couple months of lead training this time! It took me a while to get all the moves wired again but after some time the muscle memory kicked in. I took a long rest, going through the moves over and over again in my head before my first try from the start. I got through the first part efficiently and felt much better compared to my first session! I tried to stay as calm as possible and somehow kept it together throughout the second part! Sitting on top of the boulder, all I could do was smile! Partly because I knew how lucky I got, executing all the moves just perfectly enough, but mostly because I knew I only had a day left to recover before nationals 😂 Neil Hart put together the footage from my first session on it. I hope you enjoy watching! Mammut Mad Rock Climbing Flathold neprosport
Charles Albert frees Fontainebleau's first 8C+
French climber Charles Albert has freed the extension to La Révolutionnaire, suggesting 8C+. If confirmed, this becomes the first problem in Fontainebleau (France) to be graded 8C+ and also one of the hardest boulder problems in the world.
Kaizen 8C/8C+ (9A) de travesía para Jorge Díaz-Rullo
Jorge Díaz-Rullo acaba de hacer la primera repetición de Kaizen 8C/8C+ en Torrelodones, para el que Beto Rocasolano propuso 9A sin un reposo encontrado por Jorge y algún que otro truco extra en las secuencias que cambian por completo la graduación con respecto a como lo hizo Beto. (C) Jaime Díaz. Comenta en su libreta: "Dios mio aun no me lo puedo creer! Gracias a este pico de motivacion y de fuerza! Hoy cansado y sin haberla probado nada más que dos días el año pasado, saco un pegue mágico en el que consigo clavar todo y encadenar. Grande Beto por esa FA. Difícil de graduar aunque con unos métodos nuevos que saqué y un nuevo reposo será algo más fácil a como lo hizo Beto, así que en mi opinión estará entorno al 8C/8C+ pero repetidores dirán. Supercontento! Ahora a seguir!"