The fact that your ass is about 15 feet off he ground when you do the crux though, adds a huge physiological element that definitely raises the difficulty of the boulder. So, with the added element of the height, and the much easier intro moves, I think for me, the overall difficulty was in the 14 range. Even though I used easier beta, it's still one of the hardest climbs I've ever done. And definitely one of the best!!!
Le 13 décembre 2018, sans crash pad, sans chaussons, Charles Albert a réussi No Kpote Only, un bloc d’une difficulté quasi irréelle sur les hauteurs du Rocher Brûlé de Fontainebleau.
Jimmy Webb, Daniel Woods and Keenan Takahashi battle against one of the hardest undone projects in the United States. On December 15, 2018, after 11 days of effort, Jimmy Webb completed the first ascent of Sleepwalker, suggesting a grade of 8C+(V16).
Charles Albert has done the first ascent of a new extreme problem in Font about a month ago, although the news just came out. He doesn’t seem to have much hesitation regarding the grade and suggests 9A! The line is located at Rocher Brûlé on the Roche à Claude boulder, on the top of the hill (uphill the classic « Théorie des jeux ») and is named « No Kapote only », as reads a graffiti on the boulder.
Schubert saved the best for last. On December 28, he made the long-awaited second ascent of Neanderthal (9b/5.15b), a Chris Sharma king line in Santa Linya that the American first established way back in 2009. In the nine years since that first ascent, Neanderthal has bedeviled would-be repeaters—notably Adam Ondra and Magnus Midtbø—with its length and an infamous dyno crux.