After getting close last June, Cédric Lachat just did the first repeat of Pirmin Bertle’s “La cène du roi lézard” in Jansegg, Switzerland. First given 9b, Pirmin decided to downgrade it to 9a+ after a talk with Cédric. According to Cédric, whose thoughts about the send are below, he was a little bit bothered by a forced eliminate at the end the route.
Well the process was pretty fun and what made the difference in the end was the conditions. It was my 4th day on it this year and I had tried it twice 2 years ago. Also I want to mention that I'm not sure about the 8C+ grade and think it could be 8C. I don't feel that I have enough experience though to make better judgement then the people who have done it before me.
Is twenty year old Shawn Raboutou the next Daniel Woods? With Raboutou’s recent repeat of Woods’ infamous Creature From The Black Lagoon (8C+/ V16), the comparison between the two world class climbers, a generation apart, has only strengthened. Fresh off his sending spree in Rocklands, South Africa, where Raboutou ticked classics like The Finnish Line (8C/V15), Mirta (8B+/ V14), and made a first ascent of a new classic Book Club (8B+/V14), Raboutou seems to be in great form.
He did not give it a grade when he did the FA and he has not personally graded it later.
Metropolis 8C?, Lough Tay, Co.Wicklow Michael Duffy has made the FA of one of Ireland’s hardest boulder problems to date. Metropolis is situated in the beautiful and remote boulder field of Lough Tay and consists of big moves through the blank roof section of an amazing hanging boulder. If the grade is confirmed Metropolis will become Ireland’s hardest boulder problem second to Soul Revolution 8B+/8C in Glenmalure, Co.Wicklow.