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Nevada gets its first 8C/V15 with Paul Robinson's FA "Meadowlark Lemon"
Of today's (11/1/2012) ascent, Paul comments, "I considered it one of the best lines I have ever climbed on in the entire world. The boulder is super physical, yet really technical. The crux revolves around some really crazy heel hooks on the left arete.
[UPDATED] VIDEO: 3rd ascent of Hydrangea, 8C, by Motochika Nagao
Hydrangea was my dream from four years ago, when I first visited Shiobara. I'm very happy.
Toru Nakajima repeats Asagimadara, ~8C/+
Asagimadara is such an impressive line. It's located on a big boulder, and independent of any other problem. You start standing with a three finger pocket and a crimp. The first five moves are the crux of this problem and the second move to a far pocket is especially hard for me.
INTERVIEW: Toru Nakajima
The first ascent of Asagimadara was made by Tokio Muroi who is one of the strongest climbers in Japan. He doesn't use crashpads and he has also made first ascents of some hard trad in Japan.
Paul Robinson Ends Road Trip On High Note
Paul Robinson ended his highly successful 9 month road trip on a high note yesterday when he did the 2nd ascent of Dai Koyamada’s Angama (V15) in Fontainebleau.
FA of "Der mit dem Fels tanzt, 8C", Chironico.
after more then 3years, 100+ days of struggle a dream came true! for me its a very nice, once "impossible" looking line and by far the most funky, most crazy, most powerful, most delicate and hardest moves i have ever been able to link! i finally got my little bit of luck. the perfect day. the perfect go. no tiny error but also no power left for even one more move. thats how it feels when you climb on/over your limit. just perfect ;)
Traversi repeats In Search of time lost, 8C
After falling many times on the last move, Carlo traverse has repeated Daniel Woods' In search of time lost, 8C, in the Darkness cave, Magic Wood, Switzerland.
Koyamada repeats In search of time lost, 8C
ow I am in Switzerland again. Yesterday, I did In search of time lost [Daniel Woods' 8C in the Darkness roof, Magic Wood/Averstal]. It is a second ascent I think. I tried for 4 days in this stay.
Adam Ondra... interview after La Dura Dura 9b+ at Oliana
Well, when I set off I felt significantly weaker than before, I barely made it through the first part. Somehow though I miraculously didn't fall off those terrible 2 moves that had tested me so much in the past and I managed to reach the jug. I really don’t know how! As I did I felt my heart skip a beat, I was on the rest but it was really hard to calm down, recover well and get ready for the final 8b section.