Perhaps I'd just worked the route into submission! As I said, in the past I'd had my chances but I'd been unlucky. So I guess I just got really strong, I didn't make any mistakes at all and when I finally did it I felt as if I wasn't really at my complete limit.
In the case of Jumbo Love he also felt that calling it 9b would be simpler than leaving it ambiguous. “Sometimes if I don’t give a grade, people start speculating, and then it can get all blown out of proportion,” he explained.
The scene and vibe here at the moment is insane and yesterday must have been one of the best days ever. I’m sure everyone at the crag was super psyched to watch Chris Sharma put in an inspiring effort to send his long-term project La Dura Dura (9b+ or 38); certainly the hardest route in the world at the moment.
I feel pretty fit on the problem now, and feel confident I could put it together solidly now, except for my ravaged skin, seemingly healing at a brutally slow pace. The problem is made of brutal Elk Stone Granite; a very grainy sharp type of rock, albeit bomber, colored orange, with a big grain. The crystals in the rock are all you stick to, and destroy the skin. The terrible left hand crux hold, a heinous less-than-quarter-pad mini-edge, is a tip splitter and session ender, adding terror to the equation ever attempt.